Friday, June 5, 2009

Drink of the Week: Apple Mint Sour

I recently was given a Bartender Guide produced by Laird and Company. Laird is the producer of Laird's Applejack, an American apple brandy. Applejack can be found in most liquor stores if you know where to look (near bourbon, sometimes near brandy) and is a fun liquor to put in the place of bourbon for cocktail experiments. It's an essential ingredient in the Jack Rose cocktail.

One of the recipes in the guide is for an Apple Mint Sour. If I saw this on a drink list at a bar, I'd avoid it: it screams deKuyper and sour mix to me. But made with Applejack and fresh mint and fresh lemon juice, it's delicious. Beppo tried a sip and announced that he had drink envy.

Apple Mint Sour
In an iced mixing glass combine:
  • 2 ounces Laird's Applejack (or even better: Laird's bonded Apple Brandy)
  • 3/4 ounce lemon juice
  • 3/4 ounce simple syrup
  • 2 sprigs of mint, torn
Shake well, until very cold. Strain into a cocktail glass and garnish with mint.

Tuesday, June 2, 2009

BBA Challenge Bread: Bagels, Bread #3

I love bagels. I spent my formative high school years going to a place called the Bagel Depot. We lived close to New York City, so our bagels had the traditional chewiness of a true NY bagel. Due to the suburban clientele however, flavors as exotic as everything and blueberry were available. (I'm being a wee bit sarcastic. This was the 80s, jalapeno-cheddar and french toast bagels were still off in the shimmering future) .

My favorite was a poppy seed bagel, twice toasted (I have always been partial to crispy, dark brown baked goods) with a slather of butter or butter and cream cheese. The Bagel Depot was infamous for giving you a 1/2" layer of butter inside your buttered bagel. It made a mess and set up a few of my classmates for early bypass surgery, but it was fantastic.

Up here in the woods north of Boston, I had given up on bagels. The ones we can find are too soft and lack a good crust (frankly, they're underbaked). They also aren't chewy enough. Well thank you Chef Reinhart! His method worked perfectly for me. While I didn't get the best chewiness, I think that was my fault in that I used regular bread flour, not the high-gluten flour he calls for.

All my bagels were topped with poppy seeds because I had no other suitable toppings in the house. No worry, I'll be making these again and will have the full panopoly of toppings at hand next time. To me one of the greatest features of this recipe is that almost all the work is done the day before. On the day you want to eat your bagels, you pull the proofed dough from the fridge, boil the bagels (essential step) and then bake. I tried retarding my bagels for 24 and 48 hours. I thought the 48 hour ones had slightly better flavor when tasted plain.

In this picture, look how much the bagels grow during boiling. On the left, a proofed bagel; on the right, a bagel post-bath. I boiled mine for two minutes a side hoping for greater chewiness. They weren't that chewy, but I think that was a result of the flour, not the boiling.

To gild the lily, I made some cured salmon as a bagel enhancement. I used the recipe here and substituted applejack (apple brandy) for the ouzo. Deelish.

Friday, May 29, 2009

Drink of the Week: Paris Manhattan

I found the recipe for this cocktail in a St. Germain recipe book. For me, the challenge with St. Germain is its flowery sweetness. I prefer a less-sweet cocktail and for my palate, St. Germain works best in light and refreshing cocktails. I was pleasantly surprised by the bourbon's place in this cocktail. I was concerned it would overpower the St. Germain, but the St. Germain holds its own.

This cocktail is one of many that has reminded me that I need to try to make some of my own vermouth. I find that dry vermouth has a "cottony" mouthfeel that really comes through in lighter drinks like this one. Anyone have a vermouth method they'd like to share? Pretty please?

Paris Manhattan
Stir together in a mixing glass:
  • 2 ounces bourbon
  • 1 ounce St. Germain
  • 1/2 ounce dry vermouth
  • dash of bitters
Stir until very cold. Strain into cocktail glass and garnish with a cherry.

Tuesday, May 26, 2009

BBA Challenge Bread: Artos, Bread #2

The second bread in the BBA challenge is Artos, a Greek celebration bread. I was raised Greek Orthodox church and while I guess I ate a lot of Artos, I never knew its official name. Artos is a leavened celebration loaf. A number of breads fall within this category: Vassilopita (eaten at New Years'), Tsoureki (at Easter), and Christopsomo (at Christmas). They are all variations on the same spiced, enriched dough. They are shaped into different loaf styles, depending on the holiday.

This is a Christopsomo, baked for Christmastime (due to the glaze, from certain angles I thought it looked like a big roasted chicken). The bread is decorated with a gothic cross. The spices in the bread are mahleb (or mahlepi) and cloves. Mahleb is a spice used a lot in Greek and Middle Eastern baking. It's actually the inner pit of a cherry and has a slightly sour-cherryish fragrance (very slight). I didn't have any mastic on hand, if so I would have subbed it in for the cloves. Mastic is a resin, harvested from a Pistacia lentiscus tree. These trees are found only on the Greek island of Chios. I've seen the harvest process and it's painstaking and low-yield.

The bread is further enhanced with dried cherries, raisins and toasted walnuts. Good quality dried fruit is so nice in breads like this one. Don't fall for the plastic nubbins of dried "fruit" at the supermarket. Get good stuff.

Anyway, the bread. The fragrance of the dough and baked bread immediately brought me to the holiday table; I was shocked by how strongly it evoked memories for me. The dough behaved beautifully. It's enriched with eggs and so the rise was a little slower. In fact, I am experimenting with doing extra-slow rises with most of my breads. I let this one proof in the fridge overnight before shaping and final proofing.

Changes for next time:
  • Split off the dough for the cross before I add the fruit and nuts for a neater result.
  • Make two smaller loaves. The final loaf is huge, well over 10" around. For two people this was overload and too much to eat.
Of note:
  • As a number of bakers noted, this bread makes great French toast.

Week of May 24

Hello all. Hope everyone stateside had a great Memorial Day weekend. Our major accomplishment this weekend was getting all our potted plants out onto the deck. It's important to wait until we're safely out of frost-warning time and while it was 42 this morning, 42 isn't 32!

This happy family has decided to take on the task of mowing our lawn for us. I have to say that they aren't doing a great job, but they don't charge much.

Menu for the Week
Sunday
Souvlaki (Greek-style kabobs)
Grilled Vidalia onions
Vinegar-boiled potatoes (strangely successful - from the latest issue of Martha Stewart Living)
Greek salad with feta

Cherry bread pudding (with the remains of my Anadama bread)

Monday
Tostadas with picadillo (think flat tacos)
Guacamole
Pico di gallo
Black beans

Tuesday
Asparagus avogolemono soup
Huge salad

Wednesday
Pasta with asparagus and mushrooms and lots of herbs
Salad

Thursday
Kimchi soup with tofu and greens (We'll see about this one. My supermarket had no kimchi in stock and the shelves were also devoid of a suitable Chinese-style cabbage for a homemade version.)
Rice noodles

Friday
Breakfast for dinner: Eggs and hash (and probably a salad)
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